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In the world of luxury, few items have garnered as much acclaim and fascination as the Hermes Birkin bag. Named after actress and singer Jane Birkin, the Birkin bag has become synonymous with wealth, status, and exclusivity. Among its various iterations, the JPG Shoulder Birkin stands out as a particularly unique and influential design that is gaining popularity again.
The Hermes Birkin bag was born from a chance encounter in 1983 between Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas, then head of Hermes. Birkin, having spilled the contents of her straw basket, expressed her need for a leather weekend bag. Dumas inspired, designed a spacious, luxurious leather bag inspired by the HAC on the back of an air-sickness bag; a design that would would meet her needs while exuding elegance and simplicity. Thus, the Birkin bag was born, combining functionality with high fashion.
In 2004, Jean Paul Gaultier, then the new creative director of Hermes, did what many had expected of Hermes’ previous creative director Martin Margiela; he cut the Birkin in half. This version maintained the original's luxurious appeal but with a twist that catered to a more modern, fashion-forward audience. The first JPG Birkin walked Gaultier’s premier runway for Hemes’ in Fall 2004 on the arm of Linda Evangelista. Other unique JPGs made specially for Hermes’ runway shows would follow in later seasons, including examples made of silk, Karung, or fur.
The JPG Shoulder Birkin differed from the classic Birkin in several ways. Its elongated shape allowed it to be carried on the shoulder, adding a practical element that appealed to the modern woman. The size was altered to create a more streamlined look, making it not just a symbol of luxury, but also a statement of fashion and functionality. At 42cm wide, with a depth of about 18 cm and a height of about 20 cm (I say ‘about’ because these bags are almost exclusively Clemence and slouch, making the measurements variable), the JPG Birkin was visually quite new. The Shoulder Birkin quickly became a favorite among celebrities and Hermes collectors.
The JPG Birkin was preceded by the Long Handle Birkin 45, which was first produced in 2000, though a possibly unique 40cm Ostrich Birkin with elongated handles (and inverted pontets, as on the original Birkin design) dating from 1990 was sold at Christie’s in 2015 for $6,400 providing us with a rare glimpse into what could have been the inspiration for this whole series of should Birkins. The Long Handle Birkin 45 was produced from 2000 to 2004 and again in 2008 and 2009, while the JPG Birkin I was produced from its introduction on the Fall 2004 runway until 2010 when it was replaced by the JPG Birkin II. This differentiated from the original by replacing the square-spindle HAC hardware with classic round Birkin hardware, adding two interior slip and one zip pocket, and reducing the bag’s depth by about 2 cm, making it stand taller and fit easier under the shoulder. This version was produced through Gaultier’s departure, with the last examples leaving the ateliers in 2013. Interestingly, Palladium Hardware appears on JPG Birkins eight times as often as Gold hardware.
The success and popularity of the JPG Shoulder Birkin paved the way for the creation of another new design: the Hermes JPG Shoulder Kelly. Drawing inspiration from the Shoulder Birkin, the Shoulder Kelly combined the classic elegance of the Kelly bag with the modern, practical features of the Shoulder Birkin. The Shoulder Kelly borrowed key elements such as the elongated shape and shoulder-carry design, and incorporated them into the classic Kelly iconography. It featured a single top handle and the signature Kelly turn-lock closure. At a glance, the two designs are quite similar, but in practice, they are quite different. The Shoulder Kelly was produced only from 2008 to 2011. Having one long top-handle in place of the Birkin’s two handles drastically changes the way this bag hangs when open, and makes over-the-shoulder carrying more simple. The Shoulder Kelly also has a different foot arrangement and slimmer base, opting for five clou set in an X rather than the Birkin’s classic pair of paired feet on rectangular backers. This blend of classic and contemporary design elements marked a new chapter in Hermes' handbag history.
Few Limited Editions were produced in these designs. The JPG Birkin was rendered as part of the Potamos collection in all five colorways, though examples are extremely scarce today. The Denim and Barenia edition is one of the more common rarities, though the Vert Anis and Tangerine Ostrich combo is an edition I have seen only once in the JPG style. Other rare versions are those made of materials other than Clemence, such as Doblis suede and Chamonix, though these are at least as rare as any of the aforementioned Limited Editions. Few custom Shoulder Birkins or Kellys have ever surfaced, too. The only Limited Edition for the Shoulder Kelly was the Fringe version, which sees the front flap extended down with a waterfall of tonal leather fringe.
The JPG Shoulder Birkin and Shoulder Kelly have had a profound impact on luxury fashion. They have not only been successful as individual products but have also influenced broader trends in the luxury handbag market. However in the past decade, trends have shifted towards smaller bags, and the Shoulder Birkin has fallen out of favor with Hermes collectors. An early auction result for a JPG Birkin sold at Christie’s in 2009 brought the modern equivalent of $23,500 when adjusted for inflation, while more recent results have all been in the $5,000 - $7,000 range. Shifts in fashion, though, mainly the resurgence of Y2K styles, have brought the JPG design back to the fore. Younger collectors are looking more to these larger, unusual, and currently accessible designs, and prices in the market are beginning to trend upward.
Recently Hermes released photos of a new generation of Shoulder Birkins, The latest rendition of the shoulder Birkin they teased comes in two new sizes: 39 and 29 cm, each The new Shoulder Birkin 39 has been shown in a few new materials including a new denim and other textiles.
To compound this renewed interest, Hermes recently showed two new designs of the JPG Shoulder Birkin that may well be released in the coming seasons, adding gasoline to the growing renaissance for this style. Of particular interest is the Mini Shoulder Birkin 29, which continues the Hermes trend of miniaturizing (or in many cases re-miniaturizing, as decades past have seen other micro editions) their iconic handbag designs. The Minis Kelly, Lindy, and Jypsiere have all been recent hits that reinvigorated interest in their lines. A larger Shoulder Birkin 39 has also been shown in a few different textiles, indicating Hermes is looking to reduce the heaviness and weight that is typically associated with this design. These new designs sport three rows of feet at the base, harking back to the original Long Handle Birkin 45.
The Hermes JPG Shoulder Birkin and Shoulder Kelly are more than just shoulder bags; they are symbols of the evolving nature of luxury fashion. By successfully blending tradition with innovation, Hermes has not only solidified its status as a leader in the luxury market but has also influenced the direction of fashion trends. These bags demonstrate the power of thoughtful design and the enduring appeal of luxury craftsmanship. As they continue to be celebrated and sought after, the JPG Shoulder Birkin and Shoulder Kelly stand as testaments to Hermes' enduring legacy and its ability to look towards the future while honoring its past.
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